BALCONY JR.

ROPE CLIMBING

Maryland (updated 8/2011)

The climbs range from about 5.6 to Projects in the 5.12/13 range.

It’s just a short uphill hike from Balcony Rock where most people have climbed in the past. This cliff is no puny second to Balcony Rock as most of the climbs are harder, overhanging, and more exposed. Climbs range from about 30 to 65 ft. This cliff sits along the power line clearing that cuts across Elk Ridge.

This cliff will be your new winter climbing area. It faces due south and gets bombarded by the sun all day long. It is climbable through most winters.

The bottom left corner of this cliff is known as The Sunshine Wall for its good sunny winter bouldering. The landing zone is flat and the variations are fun.

The center area of the cliff sees some seepage during wet conditions and during the winter. A small bit of ice can form on the bottom half but it isn’t climbable. Multiple types of snakes have been sited below this cliff though not on a consistent or frequent basis. One of these types was poisonous.

Anchors can be difficult to set and require very long runners. The addition of 7 sets of stainless steel top anchors with rings has made things easier. There are also two bolted routes on the right side of this cliff.

updated 12/23/10

F,G

A

B

C

D

E

H

Starlight Boulder

Sunshine Wall bouldering

(outdated)

Route Descriptions: A=Ledges to a dihedral finish, 5.8ish, “Cold Steel Corner” after an old RURP found on this climb; A(var)= Ledges to a face finish 5.9ish; B=Project, moderate bottom to a hard finish; C=”Salty Dog Saloon” Moderate bottom section leads to a small overhang (1 bolt after overhang). Move from a right facing corner through a face to a left facing corner that finishes to the top. This is quality! 5.10; D= Moderate bottom section leads to hard moves through the orange rock. Pull the roof and finish out on slightly dirty/lichen covered rock. 5.11+/12-; D(var)= A project finish right of direct finish D.; E-G=These routes are bulgy and overhanging. They are in the 5.10-5.12 range and begin at the lip of the cave on the right side of the cliff. H=There are a couple of the easier climbs at this end of the cliff. Start here for the 5.6’s.

Left of Cold Steel Corner are more unmarked climbs ranging from 5.8-5.11.

B

A

The two photos below look upward on Balcony Jr. from the base of the cliff. (Photos by Evan Horst)

C

B

A

The two photos below provide a side view of Balcony Jr. As you can tell from the photo on the right most of the cliff is slightly overhanging. (Photos by Evan Horst)

Below is another view of Balcony Jr. with The Tiers bouldering area visible downhill and to the left.

Borrowed from Indy (revised here 8/2011)

The routes are described from right to left, as you would approach the wall from Balcony Rock

Grooving Up Slowly (5.5+) top anchors- 30'. The easiest route here, but don't let that fool you. If you miss a hold, the crux can get significantly more challenging. Climb the blunt arete to a spacious ledge where the climb basically ends. You can continue the climbing by traversing left onto carl's route and head up from there.

Mojo Filter (5.7) top anchors - 44'. Begin below a ledge just left of Grooving Up Slowly. Climb up and pass the first roof on the left. Continue up, staying right of The Founder's Forge, weaving around or climbing through the bulges as they come, until you reach a ledge. Step left and finish on The Founder's Forge.

The Founder's Forge (5.9+/5.10a*) top anchors- 44'. Start 5' left of Mojo Filter at the left end of the ledge thigh high off the ground. Follow up the white-streaked shallow groove to a white knob at the top. An excellent route.

The B&O Burn (5.9/10 bolted) top anchors - 50'. Begin 10' left of The Founder's Forge. Bold initial moves gain the rounded rock above. Climb over/around/between/through bulges, overhangs, and grooves. Don't burn out before you hit the top!

Potomac Power Plant Pump (5.10/11) top anchors - 50'. Begin the same as with G, but trend somewhat left as you pump up the wall. This route is between two bolted routes

The Paymaster (5.11/12** bolted) top anchors - 50'. Like many of the routes here, steep and pumpy. Begin 10' left of The B&O Burn, where the left-leaning left-facing corner comes down to the ground. Climb up the wall immediately right of and above the corner, angling for a notch at the top. The last section above the ledge is easy but runout..

Forearm Furnace (5.11d/5.12a) - 50'. Start 20' left of The Paymaster, just right of the large black 5' tall boulder by the wall. Climb up the wall and left-facing corner to a ledge below the roof. Climb up between the orange walls through the roof and finish on non-trivial terrain. There is a unfinished project variant that moves right at the ledge below the roof and skirts the right orange wall to go up at the corner.

Salty Dog Saloon (5.10c**) top anchors & 1 bolt- 65'. Excellent route. Begin 20-25' left of Forearm Furnace, next to the black 3' tall step. Climb up to and around the inverted ramp roof to the left (alternativel, pull the roof directly). Traverse up and right to gain the left-facing corner then run to the top. TRAD

project (5.?) - 65'. Begin 15' left of Salty Dog Saloon, at the broken tree below the stepped ledges. Climb up to the roof between Salty Dog Saloon and Cold Steel Corner. Pull through and climb the steep face above to the top.

Cold Steel Corner (5.8/9*) - 65'. Begin 10' left of B route. Climb up the ledge to a blocky ramp (alternatively, start 5' feet right and climb up the wall straight to the ramp). Follow the ramp up right until it ends below a roof. Step left and work your way up and back right (V1), following the corner as closely as possible until you gain the top. The crux is right as you pass an old RURP with a wire attached. TRAD. NOTE: THE RURP HAS BEEN DEWIRED FOR SAFETY AS THE GEAR WAS RUSTING AND OLD.

V1: Cold Steel Face (5.9*) - Instead of working up and back right to the obvious corner, move a bit left and continue up the face to the top. A little steeper and more technical than climbing up the corner. But no less fun.

Tried For Treason (5.11a) top anchors - 67'. Start at the same point as Cold Steel Corner, but head straight up the face instead of right up the ramp, keeping to the outside of the large left-facing corners. The crux is a dyno in the middle, but the lower and upper wall sections are stout and pumpy in their own right.

Serious Callers Only (5.10b/c) - 67'. Sustained climbing from the ledge to the top and the wall is steeper than it looks. If you fall low, odds of you getting back on at the fall point are low. You'll have to reclimb up to it. Work your way up to the main ledge 10' off the ground in whichever manner possible. The route really starts here. Climb up the face and left-facing corner to gain a ledge. Step right to the rose-colored area, breathe, then head left and up, following the face and the left-facing corner as the holds direct you.

Gravitas Free Zone (5.6) - 47'. Have a nice romp! Begin 15' left of Cold Steel Corner, scramble up ramps to a large ledge. Move left to a shallow left-facing corner system and climb it until it ends. Trend up and right to the broken blocky corner at the top.