Welcome! Please respect and preserve the wildness of the climbing areas you are about to visit! Thanks!

SHENANDOAH BOULDERS

West Virginia

Bouldering

This area is great… but you’ll quickly realize that some of the boulders have really crappy rock. Nonetheless, you will find some top notch problems in this area. When you are looking at the guide get ready to chuckle at the thought of climbing some of the problems listed in the guide. Once you see them you’ll understand. A lot of the problems marked on the map never materialized into climbs because the rock quality straight up sucked. For those problems you’ll see an XXX on the problem list. Use those X’s to hone in on the more reasonable problems.

The problems here may be on rock of lesser quality than what you see on Elk Ridge but some of the climbs are 100% worth it. Watch out for breaking holds while climbing… which means…put down your beer and spot your buddy like a pro!

Sometimes a picture just can’t beat a hand drawn topo!

MOONSHINE BOULDER

WEST VIRGINIA WALL

These grades are most likely wrong. Some of the problems have to be harder than V3+ but at the time I thought I couldn’t climb harder than V4 so V3+ is the highest grade I assigned.

	Shenandoah Boulders
1	ss	V1+
2	XXX	P
3	XXX	V0
4	XXX	V0
5	XXX	V0
6	XXX	V0
7	water groove	VB
8	crack	VB
9	slab	V0
10	water groove	V0
11	ss, start at the base of the overhang and move up left onto arete	V1	Red Dog Arete
NEW!	climb #11 to the juggy ledge, move right and dyno to the lip of the overhang	P
12	follow the hairline crack. Looks kind of classic if the rock is solid!	P	V9+ ?
NEW!	ss on small crimps/sidepull right of #12 at the rotten stump, hard but possible	P
13	ss, crimps around the crack then up left on the arete	V2
14	traverse into #13 finish	V0
15	straight up	P
16		P	Rock Quality?
17		P	Rock Quality?
	There is a boulder to the right of #18 that a little creek runs under. The creek is undercutting the boulder as it washes away soil. It is slowly revealing a really hard looking crimp line. With some excavation this thing looks like a stout, solid rock quality, overhanging crimp line that starts under the roof and could easily be V9 or harder. Check it out. Take some brushes.
18	SS, left side of arete	V2
NEW!	ss	V0
19		V0
20	stand start	V0
21		V1
22		P
23		P
24		P
25	ss, very short	V0
26	ss, very short, traverse left and roll out	V1
27	ss, low roof moves MISLABLED #18
28	ss, dirty, crimpy, and low MISLABLED #26	P
29	XXX
	Problems 30 through 38 are on the Moonshine Boulder	pg 13
30	ss	V2	Paw Paw Punch
31	ss, start at the big jug head up left, hardest moonshine line (CAUTION! holds keep breaking)	P
32	ss, start at the big jug. Involves a dyno!	V3+	White Lightning
33	ss	V3	Sip of Fire
34	ss, use variation for #33	V3	Tear my Stillhouse Down
35	ss, start low around the corner and come up to the big jug then up right	V3	Mountain Dew
36	ss, use variation for #35	V3	Blaze in the Night
37	ss	V2+	Corn Whiskey
38	Jump start arete	V2	Still Raid
39	slab	V0
40		VB
41	ss, straight up, short	VB
42	ss, up then traverse left	V0
43	ss, straight up, short	V0
44	XXX
45	XXX
46	XXX
47	XXX
48	XXX
49	XXX
50	XXX
51	out right edge of roof to a mantle	P
52	ss, short overhang to mantle	V0
	Problems 53-61 are on the West Virginia Wall (all problems are ss)	pg 14
53	AX	V1	Country Road
54	AZ, mantle the lip	V1
NEW!	BZ, mantle the lip	V1	Misty Taste of Moonshine
55	BX	V0	Take Me Home
56	CDX, crimping traverse to DX	P
57	CY, powerful moves on smallish holds, V4/6ish	P
58	CBZ, long shoulder wrenching move out right	P
59	CBX	P
60	DX	V2	Mountain Mama
61	DXAZ	V2+	Almost Heaven