Loudon Heights Main Cliff

The main cliff has some of the biggest unknown lines at Harpers Ferry. There is a mixture of overhangs, dihedrals, faces, cracks, chimneys, and long slab climbs. It takes a little bit of bushwhacking to find these lines. They aren’t too far apart in distance but sometimes are up or down a steep hill from each other. To my knowledge a handful of these climbs have been done before but not all of them. As the vegetation dies back in the Fall season these cliffs are prime for climbing.

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Loudoncloseup.jpg

Looking upward at location 1.loudon4.JPG

I know of no ascents of this wall nor whether this climb is trad leadable. It appears to be but sometimes it is difficult to say without giving it a try on lead. The most prominent line is a dihedral visible in the photo center.

Looking upward at location 2. exposedclimbingloudonheights.JPGloudon3.JPG

Exposed and overhanging. Appears to be trad leadable but I know of no completed lines on this portion of the cliff.

Looking upward at location 3. marylandtrip 069.JPGloudon1.JPG

These two photos show lines directly adjacent to each other. The left photo shows a funky dihedral climb that begins in a slight “cave”. The right photo appears to have less protection than the left line and is a lower angle wall. Right of the wall shown in the right photo is a very interesting low angle dihedral that looks like something you would utilize to climb a technical mountain peak. Throw some winter conditions such as ice and snow into it and you have yourself some mountaineering training!

Looking upward at location 4. loudondihedral.JPGloudonfacetocrack2.JPG

The dihedral in the left photo is around 5.6 in difficulty and ends at a ledge perfect for building anchors to belay your second up. Past this it gets more vertical if you stay left or work around right to technical slab climbing. The face to the right is pretty awesome climbing. The bottom section lacks protection and the start of the crack in the upper headwall is higher than the photo portrays. The bottom of the photo is at the 15 foot mark from the ground surface. The arete to the far right looks great too and corresponds with the arete at the left edge in the photo down below.

Looking upward at location 5. loudon2.JPG

The beginning overhanging section gives way to technical slab climbing. There is an arete hidden in the trees in the upper left corner which corresponds with the arete featured in photos of location 4.

Looking upward at location 6. marylandtrip 081.JPGmarylandtrip 099.JPG

These photos are not of the same climb. They are adjacent to each other. The left slab has a protectable dihedral line to follow at the right edge of the photo. The photo on the right shows the longest technical slab at Loudon Heights. The protection directly up the slab is scarce. In the right photo the bottom portion is obscured by trees so it is longer than it appears. GREAT EXPOSED CLIMBING BOUND TO BECOME A CLASSIC!